Searching For Good BBQ in San Diego

THE PLACE:  PHIL'S BBQ

THE VIBE:  PACKED HOUSE, LINES OF PEOPLE

THE COST:  REASONABLE, <$20 FOR COMPLETE RIB DINNERS

People can get religiously fanatic when they talk about BBQ.  There's the sweet, smokey tenderness found in Kansas City.  There's the spiced rub dry style of the Carolinas with its simple tangy vinegar sauce.  There's the sauce-less beefy ribs of Texas - don't ask for sauce or they will kill you.  Whether it's pork spareribs, giant beef ribs, or a tender brisket, BBQ has one thing in common - it's cooked low and slow over the sweet smokiness of hickory or fruit tree wood.

Of course, this is San Diego and this is Phil's BBQ, the"as seen on FoodTV" BBQ joint that's often called the best in San Diego.  But could it stand up to the ribs I've been lucky enough to sample across the country, or will it fail like a fish taco in Memphis?  Let's get in line and see.

Here's the drill.  You line up outside and wait like this is Disneyland on a holiday weekend.  The hostess doesn't show you to the table, she points at a cash register where you order and pay and then hunt for an open spot.  Those in the know know that you can grab a place at the bar to the left and skip the line, and those coming during rush hour know that you can call in an order and skip to the front to get your food to go.  BBQ at the beach?  BBQ in the car?  Why not, especially if you're on vacation and it's a rental!

Now I told you I've been lucky enough to sample some great ribs across this country.  Kansas City style is what most people think of when they think ribs - meat smothered with sauce.  Now purists argue with that, but purists will be taken aback by something else here at Phil's, and that's that they don't use smokers.

Say What?

That's right, unlike just about every other BBQ joint in the US, Phil's grills their ribs over mesquite wood instead of tossing them into a smoker for hours.  That could be a problem as ribs are inherently tough and need the low and slow cooking time to get tender.  But Phil's solves that problem by using Baby Backs for their pork, a more tender cut and easier to get right on the grill.

You can get a half rack for around $13 or a full rack for $5 more, and really, there's no good reason to ever get a half rack.  The sides were solid, fries hot and crispy, beans slightly sweet. The onion rings, however, had a bit too much dough on them for me but the guys ate them like it was their last meal before going on a diet.  The ribs were tender, cooked just right, and if the mesquite left a slightly harsh undertone the sauce had enough zing to carry them through. 

You can also get a combo of 4 ribs and chicken, but I see no point in this.  Not enough ribs, and let's face it, chicken is filler when there are ribs around.  It might be good filler, but you don't go to a rib place to get chicken.  But the guy who got it loved it and loved the potato salad and pretty much ate everything except for the paper on the bottom (and that's debatable) so what do I know?

One of the best things to get at Jacks Stack in Kansas City are the Crown Ribs, big, juicy fatty beef ribs cut off a prime rib. To get beef ribs right, you need lots of time in the smoker, and then some more time wrapped in foil to get them soft and tender.  But as I said, Phil's doesn't use smokers, they grill.  But they pulled it off with the baby backs, can they do it with the giant beef ribs?

Alas, no.  These ribs were tough.  Too big to pick up, too saucy to touch, too tough to cut with a knife, these were epic failures in the land of BBQ.  But people around me were gnawing on them like the Donner Party and seemed to be enjoying them, but to a rib guy these were disasters. In the end I was the only guy taking home ribs.  The rest of the guys were loving it and pretty much cleaned their plates.

Well, pretty much.  Ribs, gone. Veggies? Hmmm, did you even try them?  Don't make this same mistake.  Trying to eat healthy while going out for ribs is like trying to avoid sand while at the beach.  You just have to dive in and forget the doctor's orders.  Ahhh, and to think those veggies could have been an order of fries.

So what's the verdict?  Can San Diego BBQ?  Tough question.  I've heard Phil's called "San Diego Style BBQ" and maybe that's a good way to put it.  It won't stand up to traditional BBQ, it would be out of business in Kansas City, but in a town more famous for fish tacos it's as good as anything your neighbor might do on his backyard grill.  That's not a put down, it's hard to get it right without a smoker and Phil's does a good enough job to please all but the purists.

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Where Do Mad Men Eat in San Diego? - The Pearl Restaurant

THE PLACE:  THE PEARL HOTELS' RESTAURANT

THE VIBE:  60'S MIDCENTURY PALM SPRINGS HOUSE PARTY

THE PRICE: MODERATE ($15 to $25 entrees)

They say if you remember the 60's you weren't there, but I WAS there.  Of course, I was just a kid so my memories are less of sex, drugs and rock and roll and more of the groovy images I saw on TV.  Just watch any episode of Mad Men - you'll see what I mean.  The Pearl is like those images, a young and hip eatery along side the pool of the very young and very hip hotel.  The setting is crazy loud like a Vegas lounge but the food is taken seriously.  As for the dining experience, well, this ain't your mother's mid century.  Or maybe it was and she's not telling you about it.

DO IT, DO IT, DO IT!!!  SPLAAASH!

They also say, what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas and I think that rule should apply to The Pearl as well, especially for the guy who dropped down to his boxers and jumped into the pool.  And this also goes for the gal who jumped in after him with her dress on.  No one batted an eye, like this was pretty common stuff.   These sort of things don't normally happen when I go out to eat so excuse me if my mouth was hanging open.

Wally, close your mouth and get back to the menu.  OK, time for a drink. 

I like it that cocktails have made a big comeback.  Did you know that wine is for squares?  It's true.  When I was younger cocktails were for the old folks and wine was hip, but talk to anyone in their 20's and wine is for old people and cocktails are the rage.  Funny how that works.  Anyway, what looks good?  Hmmm, a Dark 'n Stormy is dark rum, fresh ginger, lime, mint, soda, let's get that one along with a classic Manhattan.

The Dark 'N Stormy was cool and refreshing and the Manhattan made me feel like I was in with the In Crowd, which is way better than being in with the IT Crowd.  Drink too many of these and you might end up in the pool.  Maybe that's the point!

The scene around me was classy ladies doing a night on the town, cool couples, young business people sipping their drinks.  Is that Get Smart playing on the big screen over the pool?  Hey, that shoe phone was a good idea.  Maybe Apple could make it.  The Pearl isn't a fancy restaurant, this is poolside dining.  The best spots might be the taller tables that overlook the pool area.  The worst spots might be those tables right on the edge of the pool as it looks pretty darn easy to take an accidental dunk to me - If that happens, just yell "Whooo Hoooo!" as if you meant to do that.

Anyway, let's get on to the food.  For starters we went for the bacon wrapped figs with fondue dipping sauce.

They look sort of weird, but bacon wrapped anything tastes good and the sweetness and creaminess of the fig complimented the saltiness of the bacon perfectly.  The dipping sauce was a bit odd, like the sauce you use in Kraft Macaroni and Cheese, but tasted pretty good with the bacon figs.  A creamier sauce would have been better, but I'm not complaining.  I give this dish a B+.

Next up were Carlsbad Mussels made with smoked porter and gouda cheese.  Now I've been telling you that Carlsbad has the best mussels for a long time and these rated at the top of the list for best prepared mussels.  Super fresh and the sauce had a lusciousness to it that's hard to describe.  We ate every bite and sopped up every drop of the juices, that's how good it was.  A+.

The pork chop came with pickled peach, mashed potatoes and veggies ($22) and was a standout, super moist and delicious.  Big, fat bone-in pork chops are the way to go, as long as you don't overcook them and this one was a winner.  A solid A, could have scored higher with a pinch of finishing salt at the end. Just a pinch.  My wife who ordered this disagreed, but who is usually right?  You decide and get back to me.

The special of the night was the sea bass done in a lemon sauce.  I love sea bass for it's flakiness and melt in your mouth texture, but my fish was sadly overcooked.  Dry on the edges, better in the middle, it was a shame as the flavors were spot on and the sauce delicious.  If they had pulled off the heat a bit earlier, this would have been a solid A, but overcooked drops it a notch or two.  Really too bad, this dish had great potential.

Around us people were raving about the burger, aptly named the Best Burger in Town with grilled onions and smoked gouda cheese.  I'm not above bothering people during their dinner to get you a shot.  Hey you, what's that you're eating?

Why, it does look like a Best Burger in Town contender.  It looked fantastic and the people I bothered were loving it.  And fries, man those looked good.  Please offer me one, please, please.  Ahhh, no such luck but they looked great, hot and fresh and hand cut.  I...Want...Those. 

You can actually get the fries a la carte, which brings up a really good idea.  I'm thinking a plate of those mussels and a side of pomme frites would be a killer dinner for under $20.  Make a note of that idea and you can thank me later.  OK, get the burger, too.  In fact, while the more expensive entrees were great, I think a place at the tall tables during Happy Hour, some appetizers and a cocktail, well, it's pretty hard to beat that.   

And a trip to The Pearl isn't complete without a trip to the restroom where the sink looks like a giant oyster shell.  That's pretty cool!  I just let the water run and stared at it.

We also heard that Sunday brunch is a riot with bottomless mimosa's and people actually planning ahead by bringing swimming suits and staying all day in the pool while sipping their cocktails.  I can so see that happening.  And guess what, no one seems to care so if you're looking for a place to hang out on a Sunday and don't mind being part of the show, jump in.

As I left The Pearl the party around the pool was still going on and Maxwell Smart and Agent 99 were still on the big screen.  I think this could be a very fun place to dine as long as you know what you're getting yourself into.  Bringing Grandma out to dinner?  Hmmm, maybe not.  Romantic poolside dining?  Ummmm, not really.  But party like it's 1966 at a pool party where you expect Sammy Davis Jr. to slide up next to you and buy you a drink, baby?  Well, this is the right place.  With above average food, a party scene atmosphere, and its mid century Mad Men vibe, The Pearl achieves its goal of capturing the vibe of a bygone era for today's hip crowd. 

Now please excuse me while I get my wife out of the pool.

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How To Cook Like a Pro (with a little help from Whole Foods)

A while ago I was making my often opinionated views known on Encinitas getting a Whole Foods.  Maybe it was too much wine, but I was making crazy statements like "who needs it" and "I wonder if people will shop there" and even going as far as "it's not right for Encinitas".  You know what?  Chicken butt, that's what.  Well OK, that might not make sense but basically I am suggesting that maybe I was wrong.  Yes, most definitely wrong!

North County has a lot of good places to buy food stuff, but Whole Food tops them all.  The fish counter doesn't even smell like fish, even though there are whole halibuts on ice in baskets right on front.  See them, next to the Carlsbad mussels and oysters?  Whaaaa?  Shut Up!  That's right, crazy good selection.  And the fish guys seem to know what they are talking about and don't do the Henry's Market shrug/glare/confused look when you ask them to clean a fish or fillet something.  Sure, it's expensive, but it's fresh and the guys are friendly.  There's no point in buying fish that's not fresh, right? 

As for the other stuff, the fruit actually tastes like fruit, the meat counter looks like a high def TV, and there are enough free samples to keep me happy.  And wow, the prepared food buffet looks wonderful, though be careful as more than a few stated that's it's pretty easy to fill a box up with $15 worth of food without even thinking about it since it's priced by the pound.  Back to my dinner.

I bought these weird things, salmon wrapped in cedar paper and filled with veggies.  At around $6, pretty good deal. There's a good size portion of salmon in it, restaurant size, maybe 6 or 9 oz.   Let's get a closer look.

Nice!  Let's let it sit on the grill a bit, careful not to let the paper catch on fire.  Note that the cedar paper is wet.  It was done in around 10 to 15 minutes or so, though your results may vary.  You can tell when it's done by poking the fish and seeing if it flakes.  Don't overcook it!

Steaming hot when I opened the package.  The wood paper doesn't really impart a smoky flavor, it's more to protect and steam the fish and veggies.  I added some lemon rice I also bought at Whole Foods, damn it's delicious, as well as some homemade mango salsa.  I have to tell you, this was a killer meal and I basically had to do nothing but watch the grill for a few minutes.

So Whole Foods Encinitas, I forgive you for taking a rustic part of downtown and turning it into a trendy market with condo's on top.  I'll be seeing you again soon.  And those of you who have not discovered Whole Foods yet, get in there!  It's sure to become your favorite weekend stop.

UNSCRAMBLE THESE WORDS!  OLOCA LLAWY
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Is The Prado in Balboa Park a Tourist Trap or a Serious Restaurant?

Today, it seems like everyone is a food critic.  For the record, I have been writing unsubstantiated, biased, and inaccurate restaurant reviews longer than anyone!  And through the years I've been tough on the Cohn Restaurant Group.  Maybe it's because they have been so darn popular with tourists and locals alike, maybe it's because in the past their plates had more decoration on them than a Christmas tree, or maybe it's as my daughter used to say when she was little - "I know why, it's because you're stupid."

I don't know where she gets that from.

Anyway, the other week I found myself at Balboa Park and hungry before the show at the Old Globe.  Let's check out the food options.  Tamale cart?  No.  Hot dog cart?  No.  Crummy concession stand food?  No, No, No!   Wait, how about that place I send all the tourists to?  Right, The Prado.

Located right in the heart of Balboa Park, The Prado is a bit of a hidden gem.  Not because it's hard to find, but because it's location suggests tourist trap food, overpriced hotel quality stuff.  And yes, there are a lot of tourists here.  But trust me, it's way better than a typical tourist stop.

Here's where Local Wally gives you a few tips.  Locals and tourists, listen up  First, the patio is open seating.  It there's a line to the restaurant but you see a table in the front, grab it!  Second, remember that when the kids get out of hand at the park that you can get an alcoholic beverage here.  Third, if you have the time, the outdoor dining area in back is beautiful, a tropical setting that's as good as any in San Diego.  It's like you are on vacation.  Hey, maybe you are!

And here's a super secret tip - upstairs in this building is a restroom that NO ONE knows about!  You don't even have to go into the restaurant to get there.  When the lines are long at other Balboa Park restrooms, the Local Wally Executive Washroom is open.

They start by bringing some crispy crackers and hummus.  Very tasty.  Mmmm, very very tasty.

Here, want a bite?  OK, but as I said, we were here before a show so it's time to order and go.  We only wanted an appetizer to share so what looks good?

How about some ahi poke tacos?  Hawaiian raw ahi tossed with soy sauce and sesame oil, topped with a fresh fruit salsa and served in a lightly fried crispy won top wrapper.  These look good!  Give me a bite!

Damn, that's good!  In fact, this was so good that I wished we didn't have a show to go to so I could sit here and order more food.  The fish was so fresh, the salsa tangy, the won ton lighter than air, is this the best appetizer ever?  More, I want more!

But sadly, I had to go.  I peeked inside and saw so many tasty plates going out, the smell of tamales in the air, I reluctantly left to go to the show.  But I'm coming back, and I hope you give these guys a try next time you are in the park.  I know you're thinking this is a tourist restaurant.  I know you're thinking it can't be any good.  But trust me, it is.  Don't let the tourists have all the good food.

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Late Night Burrito at Juanita's Taco Shop

THE PLACE:  JUANITA'S TACO SHOP

THE VIBE: LOCALS, WORKERS, SURFERS

THE PRICE:  CHEAP

Don't be scared.  I know this place on Highway 101 in Leucadia looks scary with the bars on the windows.  I know you've read the reports of fights outside late at night.  And yes, I have seen with my own eyes the health rating in the window showing a less than perfect score.  But you have to try this place.

The menu has all the classics, as well as a few you might not know, but the real draw here is the carnitas, succulent tender pork.  During the day there's a line outside the door it's so good.  But it's late so let's just order and dive in. 

Munch on a few hot carrots while you wait.  They even have sandwich bags next to this tub so you can take some home.  Is my order ready?

Yup, let's cut these open and see what's inside.  Man, these are big burritos!

Carne Asada!  OK, it was pretty good.  The flour tortilla was nice and fresh and had a good chew to it, the meat and filling good, though perhaps a bit underseasoned.  We got these super late at night so perhaps it's not their best representation, but while very good I think the carne asada burrito at Roberto's is better. 

Step aside carne asada and make room for the Carnitas!  One bite and it's love all over again, the meat so tasty and flavorful.  A squeeze of lime, top it with some salsa, and this is the burrito to beat.  Is there a better meal for around 4 bucks anywhere?  Isn't that about what a Happy Meal costs these days?

So here's your weekend assignment.  Look for this sign.  Stop.  Get carnitas burrito. Is this a great country or what?

Happy Fourth of July Weekend from Local Wally!
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The Beach(ed) Boy(s) LIVE at the San Diego Fair 2011

Classic Beach Boys, era 1965

"This is the worst trip, I've ever been on..."

My very first album I ever bought was Pet Sounds back in 1966.  I was a kid in the 3rd grade, living in Sacramento and dreaming of surfing and hot rods and being in a rock and roll band.  For those not up on their Beach Boy history, it was Brian Wilson who created the sound that would define the band, taking the harmonies of The Four Freshmen and combining it with the rhythm of Chuck Berry.  They rode the wave to the top, battling The Beatles for pop chart dominance.

Brian wrote the music and sang the high notes, brother Carl played guitar and sang like an angel (think God Only Knows or Good Vibrations), Dennis played drums and brought an authenticity to their surf image as the lone surfer, and neighbor Al played rhythm guitar and sang the occasional lead (Help Me Rhonda) and added the necessary texture to the background vocals that helped made the Beach Boys sound click.

And then there was Mike Love.  Cousin Mike was pumping gas when he took notice of Brian's musical talent and hitched a ride as the lead singer.  As the energetic front man, he was the "ying" to Brian's "yang", writing the lyrics to many of the hit songs.  Along the way, friend Bruce Johnston joined, not as a full member of the band but more of an employee, singing Brian's parts when he stopped touring with the group to stay home and write the songs and produce the backing tracks.

Enter LSD.  More specifically, Brian and LSD.  Drugs took their toll, at first driving Brian to write songs such as "California Girls" and "Good Vibrations" but soon driving him to the brink of insanity.  And then it crashed.  The followup album to the critically acclaimed Pet Sounds was to be SMiLE, unreleased in its original form to this day, though Capitol Records claims that this will be the year it will finally be released.  The Beatles released Sgt Pepper and the quest for best was over.

Fast forward to 2011.  Brian is touring with his own band, recreating note for note the sounds and textures of the original recordings.  The band is so good that it'll make you cry when they fire up songs like "Please Let Me Wonder" or "Kiss Me, Baby".  Even with Brian's voice ravaged by the drugs, catch him on a good night and the magic is still there.  Brothers Carl and Dennis have passed away, Al has his own Beach Boy band made up of friends and family of the original group, and Mike and Bruce kept the Beach Boy name and are touring as same.

The "Beach Boys" with John Stamos on drums.

I have no problem with old bands playing the hits.  And I have no problem with old bands adding new members to sing the parts of departed bandmates.  But I'm not sure that Mike Love without the Wilson brothers voices is any more The Beach Boys than if Ringo went out on tour as The Beatles and brought along 3 of his pals. But Brian's band pulls it off, so let's see if Mike has been paying attention.

The show opened with the original version of Surfin', with the band taking the stage and then taking over "live".  And then came the hits - Catch a Wave, Hawaii, Little Honda, Do It Again, Surf City, Surfin' Safari.  Mikes' voice was actually stronger than he was a couple of decades ago but there was something missing.  It wasn't the Beach Boys, it wasn't even an "incredible simulation", it was like a cover band trapped in an oldies prison forced to play the same songs again and again.

And then the train wreck started to appear.  The guy with the cowboy hat stepped up to sing the leads once done by Brian on Surfer Girl and Don't Worry, Baby.  Back in the 60's Mike joked that Brian sounded like "Micky Mouse with a sore throat".  Well isn't it ironic, as they say?  The cowboys falsetto was forced and at times silly sounding, nothing like the beauty of Brian's original leads.  And really, a cowboy hat in a surfing band?  Yes, I know Mike once wore a sequined turban in the 70's, but we expect that from Mike.

John Stamos on guitar.  I think Mike has a man-crush on him the way he went on and on and on about him.

Mike took the stage back and did the car songs - Little Deuce Coupe, 409, Little Old Lady from Pasadena, Shut Down, and I Get Around.  And then the musical director, one of the guitarists, stepped up to do one of the oddest yet oddly appealing songs of the night, The Ballad of Old Betsy.  For the first time in the show, the song clicked as somehow authentic, and even though his lead vocal sounded nothing like Brian's it was youthful and fresh.  Of course, Ballad of Old Betsy was never even close to a classic, a Surfer Girl rewrite with some of the worst lyrics ever penned, a love song to a car.  Instead of self-mocking, I wish they would have sang the other Surfer Girl rewrite, The Girls on the Beach, a hidden gem of a song.

Mike took back the stage with Be True to Your School and had a pretty funny intro, claiming it was a song for those in uniform... cheerleading uniforms.  Mike can be funny, that's for sure.  In My Room wasn't bad, and Full House fans got their treat when John Stamos sang Dennis Wilson's beautiful song, Forever, doing a pretty good version and a pretty good imitation of Dennis.  

Then came Bruce's turn.  Bruce?  Oh yeah, the other guy in a baseball cap?  I swear, he must have the best job in rock and roll because all he has done so far is clap and try to get people to clap along.  He took Carl's lead on God Only Knows and, well, we sure miss Carl.  OK Bruce, get back to clapping.

Good Vibrations up next, very credible job, another highlight of the evening.  But wait, there's more.

The next song up has to be the lowest point in the Beach Boy career.  The cowboy's 15 year old daughter stepped up to the mic to sing one of the most soulful songs in the Beach Boy catalog, Sail On, Sailor.  The vocal was originally done by Blondie Chapman, the black South African who now tours with The Stones.  Let me just say that this had to be the worst rendition of the song ever, a screeching mess that made me wonder if it was payback for all the mean things I've said in the past about American Idol.  She flubbed the words, the would sing really soft then REALLY REALLY REALLY LOUD, it was absolutely horrible.

A weak cover of California Dreamin', a decent Sloop John B, and then a wonderful Wouldn't It Be Nice.  For the second time tonight, the band clicked and the harmonies were full and beautiful.  I'll even overlook Mike's bad phrasing during the beautiful bridge when he sang "Maybe... IF!...."  as if reciting a line from a play.

A minor song followed, Then I Kissed Her, then a wonderful California Girls that got the crowd dancing.  Help Me Rhonda was up next, but the new lead singer sounded nothing like Al Jardine, making it sound more like a cover band than the Beach Boys.  Rock N Roll Music, the Chuck Berry cover they did in the 70's, has never been my favorite.  It sounded like filler, at least until they fired up Sumertime Blues, which really was filler on one of their early albums.  Bruce steps up again for Do You Wanna Dance, originally a Denny vocal and good enough that no one seemed to notice.

Barbara Ann and Surfin' USA up next, decent enough.  But during Kokomo there was some woman doing some sort of dance as Mike sang.  Weird.  Really weird.  And then all the kids up on stage during Fun, Fun, Fun.  Are these all Mike's kids?  I don't know.

As we exited the packed stadium I think I was the only one disappointed.  Maybe if Pet Sounds wasn't the first album I bought, maybe if I hadn't seen them when Brian, Carl, Dennis and Al still played with the band, maybe if I wasn't there when they rivaled The Beatles, then maybe I wouldn't know that the band on stage that night was just a shadow of what they once were.  Of course, maybe it's just me.  I think just about everyone else loved the show, the stadium was packed, and people were dancing.  Yeah, it must be me.

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