How to Visit Paris (without leaving San Diego)

An actual Paris Bistro in Paris.

French bistros are all the rage in Paris.  OK, that's sort of obvious but maybe not so obvious to most Americans is what a bistro is.   For example, PF Chang's calls it self a "bistro", but that's about as accurate as calling Applebee's "fine dining".  A bistro is a casual eatery, moderately priced, serving up rustic comfort foods.  In Paris they're on nearly every corner with the tiny tables (cleverly called bistro tables) facing the street for people watching.  Parisians spend hours in their bistros, slowly dining and enjoying the time.  Maybe we Americans have it wrong with our fast food and dining in the car while racing back to our cubicles.  

Cafe Chloe in San Diego.  Not Paris, but an incredible simulation!

THE PLACE:  CAFE CHLOE

THE VIBE:  Urban, lively, Very Paris-like

THE COST:  Moderately and fairly priced

THE LOCATION:  Near Gaslamp

The other weekend I was wandering around San Diego's East Village.  What?  Where?  Ahhh, long time locals might know this area better as the area of town where you prayed your car didn't break down.  Located east of the Gaslamp District, it was Bum City for a long time but has really turned itself around since the opening of Petco Park.  In fact, it's downright trendy these days.  And look, there on the corner is Cafe Chloe, looking a lot like a real French Bistro.  Let's go check it out.

Sorry for the butt crack shot.  Is that a tramp stamp?  Don't look!

The outside tables are hard to get but inside it's light and airy.  The bar might be a good spot on a busy day but we got the prime table next to the kitchen.  I know some of you might think I'm crazy but I love watching the food hit the pass and the waiters hustling to get it out to the tables. 

The view from my table.  Superb!

OK, so Cafe Chloe passes the bistro test with it's atmosphere, lively setting and urban vibe.  But how about the food?  Let's digress a bit and take a look at the real thing.

Actual food from a real Paris bistro.  Steak Frites and Duck Confit with duck fat fries.

French salad with a poached egg, lardons and croutons from an actual Paris bistro.

The real French bistro food was elegant and expertly prepared.  This isn't from some fancy restaurant but a random bistro we stopped in at when we got hungry.  Now let's see if Cafe Chloe can pass the test.

Cafe Chloe's steak frites.

I love a good steak.  As you read in my recent adventures, I was really bummed by the steak I got at Island Prime, the Cohn restaurant high end (and high priced) steakhouse.  I was craving a good steak and was blown away by the steak at Cafe Chloe.  It was some sort of hanger steak, more tender than a top sirloin and bursting with savory flavors.  Crave it.  Now.  Let me tell it to you straight - this is a damn good steak.  Don't waste your money at a fancy steakhouse, just get this steak!

Dipping sauces for the fries.  Delicious!

And here's a tip - ask for the dipping sauces for the fries.  Super delicious, you'll be licking the ramekins clean.   And if you happen to order something that doesn't come with fries (God forbid!), don't even think about not getting a side order.  They're that good.  Trust me, I love fries and these are great fries, even if they weren't fried in duck fat. 

Money shot for you carnivores.  Nice and rare, perfectly cooked.

The salad with the egg on top at Cafe Chloe.

The salad was nearly as successful, perhaps knocked down a notch due to the sloppy presentation of the egg, but trust me when I tell you that the flavor was spot on.  Hey, what are they eating at the table next to me?

That looks good!

Mussels!  Bread to dip into the juices!  Oh man, that looks really good!  In fact, everything here is good and the prices fair, making this one of my favorite San Diego restaurants.  So here's the verdict - Cafe Chloe is about as close as you're going to get to a real French bistro in San Diego.  The food is superb, the atmosphere fun and lively, the wait staff and owner friendly, the next time you find yourself wondering what to do on a weekend afternoon just head downtown and waste the day enjoying your time at Cafe Chloe. 

What are you doing this weekend?  Ahhh, going to Cafe Chloe.  Mmmmmm.

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Escalating Burger Wars

NEWS FLASH LA JOLLA:  A recent surge has caused major escalation in the Burger Wars in San Diego as hundreds of restaurants continue to offer their take on the humble hamburger.

"My mom could make a better burger than this and she can't cook worth sh&^t," said one local who asked to remain anonymous since his Mom was standing next to him.  Angry protesters on street corners shouting "End the War Now" has only increased the tension as chefs everywhere battle it out.  And right in the middle is Local Wally, the original San Diego local guy who just wants a bite to eat. And he's hungry.

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There I was.  La Jolla.  Lunchtime.  At the iconic George's at the Cove Ocean Terrace, the upstairs al fresco restaurant.  The dinner menu is a glorious collection of delights, but the lunch menu is as sparse as a Gordon Ramsey menu makeover.  There are salads (boring), a few pastas (been there, done that), and some ho-hum sandwich selections.  Oh, and fish tacos but can you really beat the $2.75 taco at The Brig?  No, no way.  So I had a drink.

George's makes a Bloody Mary that's so spicy that your eyeballs might pop out of their sockets.  See what looks like an olive in the glass?  That's actually my eyeball!  They infuse the vodka with peppers.  Maybe too much pepper.  But if you like your Mary's hotter than licking a piece of lit charcoal, this is your drink.  I'll give it an A for effort, a B for overall deliciousness, and a mental reminder to think twice before getting that one again.  

But George's main draw has always been the view, and today it didn't disappoint.  Want to see it?

Kayaks, snorkelers, and water clarity that looked like the Bahamas.  This is why we love San Diego.  And look, there are seals!  I love the seals, but who doesn't?  Don't forget, email the Mayor

and tell him you support the seals before those crazy anti-seal people bulldoze the beach so their snot nosed kids can take over.  Really, the seals need your help.

So now I'm sauced up with vodka and peppers and my eyes are watering and the sun is so hot so I look at the menu one more time and see... can it be?  A Hamburger.  With Cheddar Cheese and Bacon.  Time for George's to battle it out as I continue my search for the Best Burger in San Diego.

 And here it is, a heavyweight of a burger.  What is that, a half pound?  Maybe more.  Disturbingly huge and way bigger than my mouth could open.  Oh, I forgot, the waitress asked if I wanted a salad or fries with that.  What?  Was that a serious question?

You can't have a salad with a burger.  And these fries were darn good.  Not as good as Bouchon in Napa Valley, nor as good as The Third Corner in Encinitas, but respectable.  Stay away from my fries.  Grrrrr. 

STEP ONE:  Look inside.  Looking good.

STEP TWO:  Pick it up.

STEP THREE:  Stop eating, people are staring.

So how was it?  Pretty good, though a bit under seasoned  Thankfully they actually had Salt and Pepper shakers on the table!  I hate it when you have to ask for salt and the waiter looks at you with scorn.  Pass the salt.  So the burger was slightly overcooked (I ordered medium) and it was packed a bit too dense, but it was still pretty delicious.  Best Burger in Town?  No, not ready to call this one.  I've got a lot more burgers to eat first.  Are you with me?

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When is a Sandwich Worth a 2 Hour Drive?

THE PLACE:  BUSY BEE MARKET

2413 S Walker Ave
San Pedro, CA 90731

(310) 832-8660

THE VIBE:  Neighborhood Market near the Beach

THE COST:  Cheap

Does good food have to cost a lot?  I mean, seriously, let's pretend that the entire US became this huge hippie commune and you could have a steak, or a lobster, or a sandwich for the same price.  I know, you're thinking the steak or lobster is the ticket, but here's where I prove you wrong.

Now before we get to the sandwich, the day before I was treated to a really expensive dinner at Island Prime in San Diego, one of the Cohn restaurants on Harbor Island.  A view to die for and a $40 a la carte steak, I was expecting a worthy competitor to Fleming's Steakhouse or Ruth's Chris but dammit if it wasn't even as good as a $6 steak from Stater Bros cooked by me on my BBQ.  It was tough, it was under-seasoned, and the waiter was a college kid who knew nothing about wine.

I know it looks delicious, but it was tough and underseasoned.  Meh.

After that disappointing meal, I was ready for something fantastic.  I was in San Pedro last week - don't ask - and a buddy started telling about this oddball of a place called The Busy Bee that used to be a neighborhood mom and pop market but now just sells sandwiches.  The rest of the store has chips.  That's it. Sandwiches and chips. Bars on the doors, a line when you walk in, this was definitely Anthony Bourdain territory.

We each ordered a sandwich for around $6.50 and headed out to the beach down the street.  Now I don't know nothing about San Pedro so was pleasantly surprised to see the view.  Want to see it?

OK, screw the view.  Where's the sandwich????

 The sandwich, I want to see the sandwich!!  You have to wait.  Subway Sandwiches is like Internet Porn, no substance, no style. This is like '70's porn where you have to wait a few minutes before you get to the action.   Hey, anyone have a VHS machine I can borrow?  Just kidding.  OK, you've waited long enough.  Let's unwrap this baby!

Man, this is a MESS!  It's the roasted pork sandwich, tasting a bit like Chinese pork smothered in sauce.  It was good, but not worth a 2 hour drive.  Let's move on to the next one.

Oh man, this is the real deal!  The pastrami was first drenched in a sauce to heat it up and then tossed like a wet porn star on the bun, making it a bit like a French dip.  Tons of meat, spiced perfectly, this the sort of sandwich you dream about.  Really, really good!  Ready for the money shot?

There you go.  And you should go to Busy Bee Market the next time you're around San Pedro or Long Beach.  They prove that good food doesn't have to cost a lot, the entire lunch costing less than the tip we left for the night before. Skip out early from that boring business meeting and go taste some real food.  Get the pastrami!